Back to Harrisson 1928 introduction
Report on the Examination of Crown Lands etc. in the County of Wellington
Appendix I. Exploration, County of Wellington - From Roger River to Marrawah Plain
Appendix II. Exploration 5700 acres State Forest Reserve - Parish of Lerunna
Appendix III. Parish of Warra
Appendix IV. Parish of Marrawah
Appendix V. Parish of Lerunna
Appendix VI. Parish of Riengeena
Appendix VII. V.D.L. Co's Woolnorth Block
Appendix VIII. Parish of Williams
Appendix IX. Parish of Togari
Appendix X. Parishes of Malompto and Terragomna
Appendix XI. Parish of Mowbray
Appendix XII. Parish of Ford
Appendix XIII. Parish of Poilinna
Appendix XIV. Parish of Gibson
Appendix XV. Parishes of Trowutta and Meryanna
Appendix XVI. Hunters Islands
Smithton,
8th February, 1928
To the Chairman,
Crown Lands Examination Board,
Hobart.
Report on the Examination of Crown Lands etc.
in the County of Wellington
Sir,
1. I have the honour to report herewith upon the western
portion of that part of my survey district which falls within the
County of Wellington, covering all that portion west of, and
including the parishes of Ford, Gibson, Trowutta and Meryanna.
This is easily the more valuable portion both of the alienated
and crown lands of the district, the remainder, or eastern portion,
as far as is known, being distinctly inferior. From the point of
view of agriculture, there is little doubt that the County of
Wellington, particularly the western portion covered in this report,
is easily the most potentially valuable semi-developed area in the
State, and therefore the allocation of this land is the most
important problem that can come before the Board. In view of this
I have endeavoured to give a broad report, not only touching upon
each parish separately but dealing generally with the special
conditions and problems more or less peculiar to the area involved.
2. The report is not confined to the crown lands, for it
is evident that the Board must approach such a large and important
question, with a good general knowledge of the adjoining alienated
lands, of their age and state of development, the result of settle-
ment in the past, and of the prospects for the future, and of the
facilities both already provided, and which can be found, for
efficient and economical transport and marketing from the land it is
proposed to develop. Successful settlement and development in
country like this, is in itself the best guarantee of further
expansion, creating as it does in normal times a steady [word or two missing here]
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first, second and even third class land, generally in the first
instance for the grazing of surplus stock to be followed in due
course by residence and improvement generally by the settlers
family. In dealing with many of the problems brought forward,
the Board will remember that some of these are not strictly within
the province of the surveyor, and the case as brought forward may
only be the result of practical experience or of casual observation
and by no means a full statement of the whole side of the particular
question brought forward, and therefore I must appeal to the Board
to add their own individual knowledge when considering the case.
If, in any instance, my views may not be in accord with the Forestry
Department, I would remind you that the case for the other side may
be given by experts with all available information at hand in support
of their point of view, although whether applicable, or even partially
so, to our special local conditions, is yet to be determined, as
practical forestry in this State is in its initial stage. As the
Forestry Department were invited to co-operate with me in my
explorations, I considered my report should be a fair statement of
the case, as I see it, in the best interests of the State, and that
I should give particular attention to the point of view of future
settlement and agricultural and pastoral development as the district
surveyor is naturally the only field officer who is really competent
to do so, and in this instance has been in charge of the district
for twenty-seven years.
3. General Features. The whole area included in this
report is under 1,000 feet above sea level, with a maximum elevation
of about 800 to 900 feet in the south east, and a probable mean of
about 200 to 300 feet above sea level. West of the Duck River
valley and its extension to the Arthur River, and in the parish of
Ford the maximum elevation is about 400 to 500 feet, so in respect
to elevation all lands are in an exceptionally favourable position
for agriculture or grazing purposes, dairying, etc. With isolated
exceptions, such as the Nut and portion of the Green Hills at
Stanley, the whole of the coastal land is low and nearly level, these
flats extending in some instances to the full depth of the County
at the Arthur River.
4. In the south west portion of the Mowbray Swamp, five or
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six miles inland from the Coast, sea shells and sand of recent
date have been found, a few feet below the surface, and fifty feet
above present sea level, proving that much of this level, flat or
swampy country, was beneath the sea during the present geological
period, and if the land again sank from 100 to 120 feet all the good
flat lands of the district would be again submerged. The hills are
low as a rule with easy slopes on their sides, and extensive table-
lands on the summits, both through present selection and beyond,
and therefore no other good land in the State can be more easily
roaded, or when roaded can offer such easy grades, and such good
facilities for transport. Stone and gravel are rather scarce, and
there is not a couple of thousand acres of agricultural land in the
district which could be described as stony, which is an excellent
state of affairs, only discounted by the other extreme of absence
of road materials, but so far no road has had to remain un-metalled
from want of either gravel or stone.
With the exception of some poor plains, and the north west
portion of the V.D.L. Co's Woolnorth Block, practically all lands
covered by this report are either within six miles of a standard
State railway, or of a steel tram, worked with locomotives, and of
standard gauge, owned by the State, or of the surveyed extension of
the Trowutta line through easy country and good rich flats to the
Arthur River, - a distance of about eight miles. A wooden tramline
has already been laid here, and, as it is the outlet for a timber
concession of 130,000 acres, for the Balfour mineral country, and in
fact all the coastal lands as far as the Pieman River, its eventual
construction with steel rails for a locomotive is only a matter of
time. Good metalled main roads extend from settlement to settlement
with the exception of Marrawah, but a direct road from Smithton
passing through Christmas Hills has been metalled for about half the
distance and the remainder, through virgin country, has been
authorised. Elsewhere good metalled roads have been or are being
gradually constructed and are opening up all the selected areas, and
in most cases will open up the crown lands beyond by gradual extension
on good grades.
5. The climate is equable, mild and moist, as the prevailing
winds blow off the sea. Snow seldom falls and never remains for
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24 hours even on the highest hills. The mean temperature at
Stanley, 55 degrees, is the same as San Francisco, but with the lower
range of from 28 degrees to 83 degrees. The mean recorded rainfall
ranges from 34-66 inches at Stanley to 51-62 inches at Irishtown,
but would be considerably higher at Trowutta and in the back country.
The rainfall is well distributed throughout the year, both Summer
and Winter, the number of wet days last year ranging from 160
to 237, although the mean rainfall of the district was about 7 inches
under the average.
6. Shipping Facilities. The area covered in this report
is bounded by the Arthur River, Southern Ocean, Bass Strait, Black
River and the parishes of Medwin and Tipunah, comprising the extreme
north west of the State and including the Woolnorth block, 100,000
acres and Circular Head block, 20,000 acres, granted to the Van
Diemen's Land Company. The Arthur River cannot be entered from the
sea but would be navigable for small craft about 10 or 15 miles
from the mouth. There are no useful commercial harbours on the
Southern Ocean, which is very exposed, but the Bass Strait frontage
is low, with mud flats or shallow sandy beaches, lending itself to
water carriage by small local boats. The chief shipping port,
Stanley, is protected by a breakwater and has ample depth of water,
the mean ranging from 28 feet at L.W.M. to 38 feet at H.W.M., so the
largest Interstate steamers can berth without any trouble. The
fact that Stanley is the nearest Tasmanian port to Melbourne, only
194 miles away, or 154 from Port Phillip heads, and is connected
with every part of the State by Railway should increase its importance
in the future. Stanley is the only shipping port for large vessels
and a regular port of call for produce boats trading between the
North West Coast and Sydney and as a port, ranks next in importance
to Burnie and Devonport only. The revenue for the last 12 months
was £3714, the exports amounting to 25,157 tons and imports to 2,266
tons. The export of potato crops from Stanley during the past four
years was as follows: 1924, 88,146 bags; 1925, 137,509 bags; 1926,
200,152 bags, and 1927, 281,740 bags, an average increase of 55 per
cent every year. This wonderful increase is largely due to the
opening up of new country, especially in the Mowbray Swamp and is a
striking example for the Board of what the future prosperity of the
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district should be if all suitable lands are devoted to their best
use. The port of Stanley is 25½ miles from Trowutta by rail, 21¾
from Smithton, about 48 miles from Marrawah and 50 miles from the
end of the Welcome Valley tram, the highest point on the railway
being about 200 feet above sea level and the highest on the tram
lines being about the same.
7. Smithton is a tidal port with a depth of about 14 feet
at high water on the bar, and trade is confined to small vessels
trading across the Straits with timber etc. Four of these are owned
there and being provided with auxiliary engines, account together
with other occasional traders, for a large tonnage in the course
of the year. With the tremendous development which must eventuate
in the country to the west and south in the future, it is quite
possible that this port will be further exploited in order to reduce
the present length of railage to Stanley.
Recent Development. Although Stanley is nearly a
century old, only 25 years ago there was little over 1,000 acres of
cultivated land outside the Circular Head block, and even the road
from Smithton and Irishtown was only metalled for about half its
length. The erection of the breakwater at Stanley and the Pelican
Point jetty at Smithton, about that time, coincided with, or
accounted for a wave of progress during which the district has made
great strides, and this consistent progress still continues. During
that period I have probably surveyed about 100,000 acres of first
class selection in the district, and for nearly 20 years half the
total first class land selected in the State was in the County of
Wellington, and most of this was in West Wellington. The Trowutta
railway now runs for eight miles through what was then crown land,
where the land is now taken up in a face for twelve or fifteen miles
beyond old settlement. Smithton was a little cluster of less than
a score of houses, and a two acre lot in a central position could
be purchased for £50. Today, not a stone throw away a two storey
brick bank is being erected on about a square chain of land which
cost £700, and Smithton is a flourishing little town of 1,000 or
1,200 inhabitants with all the usual business places, two lawyers,
two doctors, a butter factory erected at a cost of £7,000 and a State
school with 250 children. The export of potatoes and produce from
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Smithton may have amounted to 50 tons in a boom season then, –
this year about 53,000 bags were handled at the Smithton Railway
station, exclusive of hundreds of tons forwarded by motor lorry etc.
8. The population of the Circular Head Municipality has
increased from 4,269 in 1911 to 6,220 in 1924, and the annual value
of rateable property which was about 23,900 in 1910, has increased
from £32,851 in 1913 to £60,223 in 1927, which is a record of solid
progress. This progress throughout the Municipality is particularly
satisfactory in view of the hopeless inadequacy of road development
for very many years, making it almost impossible for the settlers
to reside upon or improve their holdings, for even now this
inadequacy is shown by the very few blue lines indicating metalled
roads, which are to be found on the lithos. This trouble was to a
certain extent modified only to be succeeded by post-War conditions
which are most discouraging for the man on the land, and offers
little inducement for land improvements and developments, although
even now much more is being done here than in other districts of the
North West Coast. Even with the progress made it must not be
forgotten that with the exception of comparatively small areas round
Stanley Forest, Irishtown, Smithton and Montagu, the whole country
is in a very primitive stage of development, yet there is no other
Municipality in the State which has taken such strides in agricultural
and pastoral development during the past 25 years, or which is cap-
able of so much in the future owing to its favourable situation in
respect to elevation, climate, rainfall and other advantages.
9. Forestry and Agriculture. It would appear desirable,
in the best interests of the State, that all suitable timber on first
or second class land should first be marketed, if it is a commercial
proposition to do so without delay, and that these lands should
then be made available for settlement if situation and other circum-
stances are favourable. This is apparently endorsed by Forestry experts
as Mr. Lance Poole is reported as having stated to the
"Advocate", 20/2/'26 that "Tasmania has a forest climate, and it is
a matter of only setting aside land unsuitable for agricultural
purposes". If, however, it is not found to be a commercial proposi-
tion to market this timber within a reasonable time – virgin timber
which has matured naturally and which has not cost the State a
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farthing – it would surely be economically unsound to reserve such
good land, whilst our farmers sons left the State to seek the land
refused them on the other side of their homestead boundary. And if
virgin forest here, perhaps already opened up by roads, made by the
other industry – cannot be worked profitably in competition with
timber from the opposite side of the globe it could hardly warrant
the retention of similar land for the more or less costly business of
planting, tending and protecting artificially grown forests.
10. It is frequently and perhaps monotonously pointed out
that the world is faced with a timber shortage, which is to eventuate
sooner or later, according to different authorities, who may or may
not take into consideration lessened demand through the use of
substitutes and the rapidly varying conditions of the present day.
Tasmanian timbers usually take anything from 75 to 150 years to
thoroughly mature, and I believe all the best hardwood beds in
Wellington probably trace their origin to fires in the days of the
aboriginal hunter, so the planting or rejuvenation of our native
timbers will mature a very long time hence, and it behoves us to
see that the land will be of such quality as not to be required for
other purposes before the crop matures. In this connection it is
most interesting to note that the world about that time may be faced
with an even more vital and serious shortage – that of food. At
a world's population conference held at Geneva a few weeks ago,
Professor East of Harvard University pointed out that the world's
population had been trebled since 1800 and it is calculated that
should this rate be maintained in A.D. 2027 the population of the
earth will be five billions. It is also estimated there are only
about 13 billion acres that can be cultivated, and that 2½ acres
are needed to provide sustenance for each person and therefore on
these figures the maximum carrying capacity of the world will be
reached only a century hence. The sceptre will pass to the nations
which now have the empty spaces: they will supply the bulk of the
food which is essential to human existence. The position may then
be that rich country devoted to slow-growing timber will be required
for the production of food, and with this danger ahead, the country
whose far-seeing experts have searched the globe and planted their
high, broken and stony poor lands with suitable timbers, converting
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wastes into green commercial forests will also hold the sceptre
in the timber world. I might remark here that Mr. Gibson,
conservator of Forests, Lahore, recently stated at Burnie that
re afforestation schemes in Tasmania up to an elevation of four
thousand feet had every prospect of success, in which case, only
peaks of the highest mountains would be ineligible on the score
of altitude. The total area of Tasmania and the islands is
16,800,000 acres of which only 6,200,000 are alienated, or in
course of alienation, 300,000 acres are leased under closer
settlement etc, a little under 2,000,000 acres held under pastor-
al and timber lease, 50,000 under mineral lease and 119,000
reserved for public purposes, of the whole 16,800,000 acres,
over 8,110,000 acres are absolutely unreserved and unoccupied
and returns no revenue whatever, except perhaps from a few skins
and this after 124 years of settlement. In New South Wales the
only older state 178,360,000 acres out of a total of 138,630,000
acres are either alienated in course of alienation or leased
either in perpetuity or otherwise. After allowing for necessary
reservations including state forest, the only available crown
land in that state is 300,000 acres which also includes roads,
rivers and lake beds so there is practically no unused land in
the sister state. When we realise that 48% of this State is
available unoccupied land, how necessary it is that we should use
the greatest caution in locking up any suitable good land for
timber or any other purpose, when there is such a huge area
available, remembering too that the whole of the land comprised
in this report, is of low elevation, near the sea, not very
broken, easily roaded, railroaded and developed with the main
trunk lines practically constructed, with a mild climate and
copious rainfall. Knowing at the same time that timber grows
equally well in rough broken country and at considerable elevation
where conditions are quite unsuitable for other crop. In
reference to re afforestation of country useful for other purposes,
I would also draw attention to the fact, that so far in this
State no company or individual, no careful investor, rash
speculator, or even sawmiller grown old in the business has made
any attempt at re afforestation, which is one of the strongest
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possible reasons why the holding up of useful country for that
purpose should receive the severest scrutiny. If our Forestry
Department proved that in this State reafforestation is a commercial
success and a safe and sane investment, it is absolutely certain that
it will be taken up by private enterprise, and when this takes place
no doubt most of the present 48 per cent. now unoccupied in this State,
will still be available. Therefore it would follow that unless it
is the considered policy of the Forestry Department to confine re-
afforestation to a Government monopoly, there is no justification
for the dedication of large areas of country, when they are in
definite conflict with other important developments. If all the
Crown land of the State were rich and fertile and were being rapidly
alienated, it would be most necessary to rigidly define all areas
considered necessary for forests, but unless the rate of alienation
during the past 124 years is considerably increased, it will take
over two centuries yet to exhaust the Crown lands of the State.
Unfortunately nearly all the good commercial virgin forests of this
district are occupying first or second class land, suitable for
agriculture and grazing, and in the case of blackwood the land as a
rule is of remarkable fertility. Practically nothing is known of
local hardwoods reafforestation which may present unexpected problems.
I have frequently felled well grown apparently healthy young stringy
bark a foot or eighteen inches through, growing with ample space and
found them even then unsound in the heart. In frequent instances
where the hardwood forest has been burnt, there is little commercial
rejuvenation occurring, and this can be seen in certain places along
the Marrawah tram line. It is quite a well known fact that after
a severe fire a predominating scrub may almost disappear and give
way to another kind.
11. Most of the open plain country contains beneath the
surface a layer of hard pan with the result that they are partially
water-logged for several months in the year, and in that state will
grow no native timber and probably no exotic timber of commercial
value. Long lines of railway have been built through the country
and the adjacent lands should be developed as much as possible in
order to provide the maximum of production and freight to recoup the
outlay involved. The Marrawah tramway runs today through unimproved
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and unselected country for fifteen miles, the land along the route
being either withdrawn from selection, or held under timber lease,
and as the adjacent timber beds are being rapidly depleted they will
soon be exhausted and no further timber freight will be available for
a generation. Turning to roads, the same necessity for development
will apply equally well, but here we find that to a certain extent
the Lands Department and the settlers have been carrying the timber
industry on their back. Timber carters await the opening of new
roads into settlers lots, opened both by the settlers land payments
and by votes granted ostensibly to assist the man on the land. These
roads would give fair access for many years with reasonable traffic,
but are often rushed by the timber carters as soon as opened, or
metalled, as the case may be, and ruthlessly cut up and rendered
impassible for ordinary traffic. When absolutely impassible the
timber carter can move on to the next road, but the unhappy selector
has to remain and make the best of a bad job. Usually the carter is
not a ratepayer, and it frequently happens that the damage done to the
roads may far exceed his nett profit, as the timber toll is a mere
bagatelle when compared with the damage which often occurs. The
average timber toll in the whole Circular Head Municipality for the
past six years was only £285.2.2 per annum.
12. Before any area is dedicated as forest, consideration
should be given to many very important questions, such as situation,
elevation, climate and rainfall, suitability for agriculture or
grazing, facilities for improving draining and roading the area and
many others, and careful inquiry will indicate the best use to be made
of the land. As will be seen, all the first and second class land
referred to in this report is within a few miles of roads and rail-
ways and very favourably situated in every respect for grazing and
tillage, and would strongly recommend that the whole of it should be
retained for that purpose. The more elevated and broken country
further inland is equally suitable for forest purposes and there is
still 10 million acres of Crown land available there, whilst the area
covered in this report is easily the most suitable in the State for
Closer Settlement and general farming developments and the great
strides made in the past 25 years is a guarantee of future progress.
Soils. The useful lands of the district can be conveniently
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divided into the low flat lands and the high dry lands usually hilly
country. The high lands are usually dividable again into red or
chocolate of the usual basaltic type and the 'grey' rather clayey
land, there being little or no sandy land through the high country.
The red or chocolate land is a fair average of the North West Coast,
very similar to the same type of country from Devonport, to Circular
Head, subject to the same fault of getting very dry when a shortage
of rain occurs. However, the mean rainfall would be 10 inches higher
than the average, and the climate being moist and cool it is never
affected to the same extent by a dry summer and in fact the crop
shortage resulting from a dry season further east give the profitable
seasons to the farmers further west.
The 'grey' high country of which there is a vast area
would appear to be of similar origin, and covers a large portion of
the Crown lands of the district, carrying a fair growth of Stringy
Bark, Myrtle, Musk, Dogwood, cutting grass, Cathead Laurel, and tree
ferns and in some instances Lancewood. It varies considerably in
quality over even small areas, but as a rule is good, useful first
or second class land, cattle doing exceptionally well when changed
on to it from swamp country of which one class is slightly "coasty".
In a few instances gravel is found on this land, but only to the
extent of a few hundred acres in the north and west of the area. The
crops grown in fair 'grey' country give similar results to crops
grown on the red or basaltic soil, either with grass, grain or
potatoes, but the latter, although of good quality, are 'off-colour'
and in good seasons are not in the same demand as those from the red
soil. This 'grey' soil has always a clayey sub-soil and requires
good farming as it sets down very hard if worked in wet weather.
Exceptionally good crops of oats have been grown upon it – far better
than on the chocolate soil of the district, and I know of paddock
growing excellent crops of oats which have grown the same crop
every year for twelve years with two light dressings of manure
during that time. Messrs. Dunn Bros. of Xmas Hills and Mowbray
Swamp, who are probably the largest potato growers in the State,
have obtained remarkable results from the "Grey" soil land
on their Xmas Hills farm, which they consider much superior to chocolate
for growing oats, maize, swedes etc. In the same vicinity a crop
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of Brownell Potatoes are growing in similar land which was
cropped for potatoes last year, and should yield six or seven
tons to the acre, so there can be no doubt of the value of the
better portions of this type of country. Top-dressing for
grass is almost unknown in this class of country, but if used
would no doubt give the usual greatly improved results. The
low flat lands of the area consist of the poor sandy third class
plains, and the first class swamps and flats of grey soil, sandy
loam, or black peaty vegetable loam and in the developed portions
of the Mowbray Swamp there is little to choose between the
results of each class, each giving similar remarkable results.
A little below the surface, in nearly all the good swamp areas,
limestone rock can be found, and strong springs break out,
forming in some instances mounds up to 25 feet in height, consist-
ing of lime, magnesia, iron etc. Although so variable all these
different swamp soils are uniformly good and when properly drained
have given exceptionally good results, and in the case of doubtful
land, even better than anticipated. This feature of swamp land
justifies a reasonably optimistic attitude when dealing with the
more doubtful portions of the area under examination. The only
swamp cultivated to any extent as yet, is the Mowbray Swamp and
the actual results are well known. Potato crops up to 20 and 22
tons to the acre have been grown, and although the light
Brownell is generally grown the average crop over all these classes
of soil, throughout the swamp, would be about nine or ten tons,
and much of the cultivated land is in a rough state for cropping,
and no fertilizer is used with these crops. The average
Tasmanian crop for ten years is 2.68 tons per acre, and it is
a fact that a crop twice as heavy, will only cost half as much
again in gross expenses, or a crop thrice as heavy, will only
cost double the average crop, which shows what a valuable asset
such land is to the state. These rich swamp areas may become
the market gardens of the large mainland cities as crops of
carrots up to 600 bags to the acre and parsnips, swedes, etc. in
proportion have also been grown. The export of carrots and
parsnips from Stanley have increased from 558 bags and 25 bags
in 1924 to 7566 bags and 887 bags in 1927 which shows the
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development of these crops. Further particulars of crops grown
on this swamp are given in the report of 31/8/'26 elsewhere referred
to.
A recent development in the Mowbray Swamp which is of
the utmost importance in the classification of similar country else-
where, is the results obtained from the 'grey' soils. This was con-
sidered to be much inferior to the other classes, a poor, water-
logged white clay very hard to work, and of little value if it were
worked. During the past year or two, crops have been put in by Messrs.
Moore, Blainey and others, with good results quite equal to those from
the rich black vegetable mould.
13. The soil on the third class plains is the very fine
white sand which is capable of improvement, unlike many of the coarser
sands. So far no attempt has been made to improve or crop it on a
commercial scale but with a liberal use of manure, excellent vegetables
have been grown and are being grown in different places throughout
this class of country, and I have no doubt it will be of eventual use.
Soil Samples: As much of the report has been supplied from
information previously obtained, it was of course impossible to obtain
samples of soil without making special trips for the purpose.
However, the samples forwarded will be of great value as typifying the
grey hill and swamp country, and have the additional advantage in most
cases of having been practically tested by actual use. Further
samples can be secured if deemed necessary. The accompanying lithos
have all available information upon them and explain themselves.
Owing to the dense scrub and wet climate it was not advisable
to effect any field work until November, and the report has been con-
siderably delayed through various causes. Only a small amount of
actual field work was done, which rendered it necessary to search out
and verify a large amount of information which had been collected from
time to time. Thorough search was made at the Lands and Works Office
in Hobart for reports of former explorations but unfortunately many of
these appear to be mislaid. I regret the Forestry Department made
no officer available whilst I was effecting the exploration, so was
unable to co-operate with me in carrying out the work.
Attached are reports upon the exploration effected in
connection with this work, and the special report upon each parish.
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(Vide Appendices)
I am now awaiting instructions in reference to the
remaining portion of Wellington, as this only covers portion of that
county which comprises the Western half of West Wellington.
Yours faithfully,
(Sgd.) K. M. HARRISSON.